DMM Aneng AN8009

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This is the latest incarnation (Late 2017) of the this small fairly cheap meter.

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It did not include a box, but was delivered in an envelope that contained the holster.

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Everything was inside the holster.

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It included the DMM, two pair of probes, a thermosensor and a manual.

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The standard probes has removable tip covers.

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The other set of probes feels rather low quality, but has some nice functions. They consist of two wires with threads at both ends and a couple of different tips that can be mounted in each end. It is slow to use, but very flexible.

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Here are all the different tips.

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The thermosensor is a real probe, not just the small bead at the end of wires. The plastic has a crack.
I am not convinced that this is better than the bead, that is smaller and easy to stick on just about to any surface with some sticky tape (Buying one as supplement is cheap).

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The body of the DMM feels solid, the plastic is rather smooth, i.e. the DMM can easily slide on a surface. The tilting bale is rather flimsy and do not give enough support for pressing buttons and turning the range switch.

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Display

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The above picture shows all the segments on the display.
Not all the segments are used on this meter.

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Typical display during usage, it will show the number and what measurement is selected.

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Non contact voltage will show from one to four bars depending on the electric field strength.


Functions

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Buttons: Rotary switch:
Input

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Standard probes will work, but can not be fully inserted.


Measurements 1uF

A look at the capacitance measurement waveform.

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Frequency input resistance.

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Tear down

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Four screws and the back could be removed.

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The circuit board is shaped to fit the enclosure.

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3 more screws and two clips, then I could remove the circuit board from the front.

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And two more screws and two more clips to remove the display.
As usual the connection to the display is with a zebrastipe and there are two wires for the backlight.

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There is not much on this side, only the switches and the connector pads for the display.

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Everything is on this side. Near the 10A fuse (F1) is the uA shunt (R23 & R24: 99ohm+1ohm), this shunt is protected by a diode (D5) and a 200mA fuse (F2).
The voltage input is handled by two resistors (R29 & R20: 5Mohm+5Mohm) and there is a small PTC (PTC1) for protecting the ohms/capacitance current output. The two transistors (Q3 & Q4) is protection after the PTC.
The part marked Q5 is a ICL8069 1.2V reference and Q1 is used to turn the background light on and Q2 the buzzer.
There is a EEPROM (IC1: 24C02A) to handle calibration and define function in the multimeter, the big blob is the main multimeter IC.
There is a trace at the top of the circuit board between the two LCD mounting holes, that is the NCV antenna.

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Conclusion

The meter is easily within the specified tolerances (Except 10A) and it has lot of functions and ranges, but the CAT rating is fake.

This is a small DMM in size, but has most of the expected functions in a universal DMM. It has a hole in the current range, it can measure currents in that range, but with fairly low precision, instead it has very low burden voltage in the mA range and low precision at high current. Temperature and NCV is a good addition to this version of the meter.

I do not like the small fuse size, they cannot break high voltage or high current and they can be hard to source locally (They can be found on Ebay). The current range on the voltage input is also a bad idea.

The 9999 count secures the best possible resolution for 4 digits.

I will call it good DMM for hobby use, but keep it away from anything with mains voltage and lots of amps.





Notes

This meter may exist with many different names on it and small variations in functions.

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