DMM WH5000A

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This meter do not have a brand, but has lot of ranges and functions.

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The meter arrived in a cardboard box without any information on.

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The box contained the meter, probes, thermocoupler, magnet, strap, transistor tester adapter and a manual.

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Probes are not branded and are specified for CAT III and CAT IV, this cannot be true with that much tip exposed.

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The plug is fully shrouded but a bit short.

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A standard cheap thermocoupler with a two banana plugs.

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The transistor tester, thermocoupler, capacitance tester socket.

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The meter includes a strap with a magnet.

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The rotary switch and button can be used single handed when using the tilting bale.

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Display

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The above picture shows all the segments on the display, a few of them are not used.

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Usually the meter shows the selected range and the value.




Functions

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Buttons (Range selection and a few other are remembered): REL and max/min will disable auto ranging.

Rotary switch:


Input

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Measurements 1uF

A look at the capacitance measurement waveform when measuring 1uF

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Frequency input resistance, the impedance is a bit above 1Mohm up to around 2V where it drops to 2kOhm

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Large DC values may prevent the meter from showing AC values and may even reset it.





Tear down

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I had to remove four screws and two fuses to open the meter. I do miss some external markings which fuse goes into which holder, it is marked on the circuit board.

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The fuses are mounted on a bridge across the circuit board, nice solution to make them external accessible.

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Five more screws and I could remove the circuit board. In fact I only needed to remove two screws!

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The range switch is mounted on the circuit board with 3 screws and it is not necessary to remove it.

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If only the correct two screws are removed, the circuit board looks this way when removed.

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Display is also mounted on the circuit board.

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That was another 3 screws.

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The 10A shunt (R13) is moderate in size, next to is the mA shunt (R14: 0.99ohm) and near the fuses the uA shunt (R15: 99ohm). The uAmA ranges are protected by a fuse and four diodes (D1..D4). Voltage input uses a PTC (PTC1) and two resistors (R6A & R6B: 2x5Mohm).
Ohm and capacitance uses a PTC (PTC2) and a resistor (R8: 900kOhm) for sense input and another PTC (PTC1), a transistor pair (Q1 & Q2) and a series resistor (R7: 100ohm) from the chip for current output. For Hz, temperature and clamp input the same path is used (PTC1, Q1 &Q2, R7). For HFE it is again a PTC (PTC2), but another transistor pair (Q4 & Q5).
The multimeter is, as usual, based around a single chip (IC1: DM1106BEN) and a EEPROM (IC2: 24C02) and uses a 3 volt regulator (IC3: 7330-A) for supply.
Near the PTC's are space for two MOV's in series connected to PTC1 and common. I doubt they would have much effect, MOV's are often needed on both input and some longer distances are required.

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This meter had a few issues putting together again, first the small steel balls inside the range switch and then getting the fuse holder to fit the cutouts in the enclosure, when that succeeded all the screws had disappeared (They where found on the magnetic hanger).



Conclusion

The CAT rating is not correct, 600V fuses are not enough for 1000V, input protection is better than some cheap meters, but that do not make it good. The actual input rating is also very confusing.
For hobby use it is fine and can be used on mains voltage from normal mains outlets, it has many ranges and also min/max, but I am missing frequency in voltage and current modes.



Notes

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